Jan 20. 2015. Back in the U.S.

After 26 hours of flight and driving, I am back in Baltimore, Maryland. While breathing in Washington DC, I looked back over my career in Africa. All kinds of memory went through my mind like a flash. Standing on the Wolfe Street still has not hit home yet. Maybe, life in Africa was like a springtime fantasy. I am just happy that I return alive. Also, I am excited to see my school and church friends in Maryland.

Though I left Africa, my work will still be about African country. My upcoming work at school will be mobile health project in Mali.

Jan 15. 2015. Visitor

It has been 8 months since I came to Africa. When I came here, I had a full of great ambition that I would do everything I could. I look back upon the past how I was in Sierra Leone, Tanzania, Zambia, Malawi, and here in Mozambique. I feel sense of accomplishment, and it was a rewarding work experience, but at the same time, I also have a feeling of doubt about my enthusiasm that I had in the beginning. 

I have experienced many extreme feelings; extreme fear for Ebola, extreme hunger at night, extreme diarrhea and constipation, extreme headache and stomachache from typhoid, extreme lonesomeness in the inky darkness, extreme despair in poor surroundings, and extreme thrill of bungee jumping. I want to ask myself what has been changed in Africa since I came. Ebola is still there in West Africa, mosquitoes are still buzzing around me, drinking water from out of nowhere is still doubtful, and blackout is a commonplace event at anytime…

Where can I see the dramatic improvement? Have I had an enormous positive impact on African society? Or am I a troublesome fellow who demands this and that all the time to people? That would not be possible that I can see something different within such a short period of time. 8-month is not probably enough time for me to feel the real nature of Africa. It was also beyond my capacity to expect the difference when it comes to the rapid health growth in Africa between last June and now.

“You may come back to Mozambique later,” said Korean friend during dinner. Well… I don’t know. To Mozambique, to Zambia, to Malawi, to Tanzania, to Sierra Leone, or to somewhere else, I feel inevitable destiny that would come back to Africa. Some Korean people who I met in Africa seem to have a high opinion of me, because I have gone through many hardships in multiple African countries. The other way, I think highly of them. They immigrate to here, volunteer for several years, promote public health project from a zero basis, and devote themselves to the propagation of Christianity. I merely have a superficial knowledge of Africa. What can I know about Mozambique during two weeks?

I was a visitor in Africa. At some point, I have reached the limit and realized that I would not be the exact same as local people. The thing that have made me uncomfortable spiritually all the time was I was the person who has grown inured to advantageousness and serviceableness from the well-to-do country, so to speak. I could not change my skin color; that may make local people target me at night on the street. If I cannot avoid being a vulnerable target in somber darkness, how should I find my freedom of going outside after dark? Has somebody eagerly wanted me to come to Africa to help them? No, nobody asked me to do that. I am here on my own free will, and honestly, I do not know exactly what should I do for people here. It is just nonsense to say that I always treat African people with a heart full of feeling, with worrying possible life-threatening accident, like armed robbery at night outside.

I was a stranger in Africa. I felt eyes from random inhabitants whenever I was walking or jogging around the street. I am always seen as an alien from China who carries lots of money. I have never heard “안녕하세요 (An-nyeong-ha-se-yo?)” on the street, but instead, I have always heard “Ni-hao!” They never knew I would feel unpleasant when I heard that. When I was not in a good mood, I did not even look at them and ignore it, but I have normally tried to receive their “Ni-hao!” greeting, because I believe it must be their token of intimacy. Yes, in South Korea, Korean people never say hello to others who they do not know on the street. If I do that in South Korea, people may think ‘쟤 모야? Is he crazy?’ 

So then, why do I have to insist on doing something for Africa? Actually, there would be many things to do for my home country. South Korea looks well-developed economically, but the level of satisfaction for life is poor. It is a rough place that suicide rate is the third highest in the world; 40 people kill themselves across the country every single day. Which country do you prefer to live? In South Korea where people enjoy the benefits of civilization but most of them feel unhappiness? Or in the poorest and least-developed country where you can feel easy but everything makes you frustrated?

Korean people who I have met in Mozambique must have been put up with all sorts of hardship to settle down. They invite trouble on purpose, putting aside from advanced civilization, to practice true love in this new strange land. Language, food, and climate are all different, infrastructure discourages them, danger of all kinds of disease lurks in the path of their lives and furthermore, some local staff who they hired are never cooperative. Notwithstanding, young Korean married couple willingly came to Mozambique for missionary work, newlyweds are counting down to the big day to meet and settle down in Mozambique, branch manager from Good Neighbors takes initiative to start health service for children and mothers’ health in Mozambique, a pastor from Korea Food for Hunger International have lived in Mozambique for 18 years for progressing project as well as preaching a sermon at church.

I was neither one nor the other. I am at the crossroads now; remaining as a visitor, or becoming genuine resident wherever I go. More to the point, I will not stop approaching people first who are suffering from disease, hunger and poverty to make the world a better place. I have just taken the first step into the real society, so I have a long way to go. Also, I truly hope all Koreans in Mozambique will assimilate into Mozambican culture well to realize their dream.

Jan 13. 2015. Mozambique Cuisine II. Matapa!

July. 2014. This is Cassava leaves

Somehow, I have forgotten to eat local food since I came to Mozambique. I have eaten yogurt and egg for breakfast, and I have ordered expensive Italian food for lunch during the whole week. I hardly saw Mozambican staff go out and have lunch because they bring the food from their home (and the lunch time was only for 30 minutes: 12:30pm to 1pm!) It was only me in the office who order the lunch from the restaurant. The good thing was that they deliver the food! However, the minimum price for lunch should be 350MT (=$11) to order delivery.

I was working with DM&E team leader, Isaiah, in this morning, and he suddenly asked, “Have you tried Mozambican food?” Yes! Portuguese steak! Wasn’t it the local food? To be honest, I wanted to go out somewhere and walked around, but I have no idea where to go after work at night. He looked at me pitifully for a while and called somewhere to order “matapa.”

“What is matapa?!” It was Mozambique local food. I was already wondering how it looks and how it taste. "Where are we going?" He grinned and said, "Let's go to my place for lunch." I thought he ordered the food at some restaurant, but he took his 2-year old cute kid at the kindergarten (it was located right next to the office!), and he also took me to his home for lunch. I was invited to his family’s lunch. He was such a nice man.

Today's lunch. Do you see matapa and chima?

I thought there was only rice and matapa for lunch, but there were beef, chima, anchovy, and vegetable. 오예! The white bread made of maize flour is called “chima” here in Mozambique, but each country calls it different name: Fufu in West Africa, Nsima in Malawi, Nshima in Zambia, and Ugali in Tanzania. It was so hot; that was a good excuse for me to avoid using my hands to eat chima.

Getting to the point, matapa was almost like cassava leaves in Sierra Leone! Matapa is a typical Mozambican dish that can be also made of young cassava leaves (or other leaves), garlic, flour, crab, and nuts. It must be “taking so much time” dish. I saw how people cook cassava leaves one time, and they boiled them in the hot water again and again to extract a sour taste, and then stir it with many other ingredient. I enjoyed the meal. It’s time to work again. Let’s go to the office.

Jan 8. 2015. Clean water from human waste

Do you think excremental water can change into clean water that human beings can drink? The answer is YES! Even if the water is filled with feces and sewage, it can be reformed as drinkable water through water boiling and treating process. The sewage treatment plant, called the Omniprocessor, was built by Seattle-based engineering firm, Janicki Bioenergy. This machine use human waste to create clean water and electricity! The billionaire Microsoft cofounder, Bill Gates became interested in this new technology that “transforms human waste into clean water and electricity,” so he eagerly wants to help 2 billion people who have no access to adequate sanitation through his philanthropic Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation.  

Here is Bill Gates’ blog.

<This Ingenious Machine Turns Feces Into Drinking Water>

To generate electricity and create clean water, the Omniprocessor enters feces into the machine. Boiled sewage is divided into dry sludge and water vapor. The dry waste is then incinerated at extremely high temperature to produce the electricity that is delivered to communities in Seattle. The water vapor is filtered and it produces clean drinking water.

This is how Omniprocess works.

<Watch Bill Gates Test A New Machine That Turns Poop Into Clean Water>

This sewage treatment technology would solve poor sanitation situation in developing countries, and a pilot project has been planned in Dakar, Senegal this year. I hope this investment would be also attractive to entrepreneurs.

Bill Gates tasted one sip of water that was with poo a few minutes before and said, “It’s water!” at the end of the video. (If he bottomed up that glass of the water, it would look much better. J) He said, “The water tasted as good as any I’ve had out of a bottle. And having studied the engineering behind it, I would happily drink it every day. It’s that safe.”

Who can deny admiring his humanitarian work to improve water, sanitation, and hygiene in developing world?  I thought I live in a troubled world where terrorism and crime are occurring in succession here and there; but the world is still beautiful because there are also many philanthropists who help the poor for the betterment of society.

Jan 7. 2015. Wiping out malaria!

I awaked from my sleep in the middle of the night. Mosquito was so noisy that my ears were ringing. Perhaps, mosquitoes are the best wake-up call that wakes me from a deep sleep. However, it is too early… why don’t you buzz around me in the morning, not at the crack of dawn?

It has been 8 months since I began taking malaria prophylaxis, and I am free from malaria so far. Many people do not believe the effectiveness of malaria pills and suggest to take them at once only when actually contract malaria. Antimalarial medication is a strong drug that affects liver somatic index badly. I chose to take those steadily, Malarone and Lariam, but I do not know how long I have to rely on them enduring various side effects? Anyway, prevention is the best policy.

Here is an interesting malaria story that some people eagerly look forward to getting malaria on purpose by getting 200 malaria-infected mosquito bites.

<Bitten by 200 mosquitoes: Seattle volunteers bare arms in malaria test>

http://seattletimes.com/html/localnews/2025391529_malariavaccinexml.html

Developing malaria vaccine is still going on, and continuing research is challenging due to the stalled grant. Seattle BioMed research lab believes that 200 mosquitoes bites on the human being’s forearm to study malaria would be the most promising way to make its vaccine. If you let crazily hungry mosquitoes bite your forearm for 10 minutes and monitor symptoms during 10 days, you will get paid about $1,800. Is it a good deal? I would not do it! I did not count, but I might have been bitten by 300 mosquitoes since I came to Africa last year…? I became neurotic to mosquitoes, so I deluded myself that I hear a mosquito buzzing sound when I went vacation in South Korea in December. There should be no mosquito in that midwinter weather there…

Until we see malaria-free world, the effort to stamp this tenacious parasite out completely must go on. Malaria mortality rate in Africa is still high, and it claimed 584,000 people’s lives worldwide in 2013. Antimalarial medicines are expensive, so the majority of people in Africa never even dream to take it. At this moment, vector control at the community level would be the best way to prevent further malaria transmission in Africa. Insecticide-treated mosquito nets (ITN) and indoor spraying with residual insecticides (IRS) should be more disseminated, people needs to know the importance of sleeping under the mosquito nets, not leaving ITN alone.

PHOTOS BY STEVE RINGMAN / THE SEATTLE TIMES

Jan 6. 2015. Number “Five”

The good thing about going to several African countries is to experience diverse culture, food, and sightseeing. I originally thought it should be cool to visit countries as many as possible, but on the other hand, it could also be just nominal that I only add one more country in my travel list. Have I seen the real beauty of each country? I cannot say yes. Within short period of time, I was overworked, so sometimes I did not really know where I was and what I was doing. Am I in Tanzania? Malawi? right now? I am confused myself, and yesterday, I did not even remember the capital city of Zambia. Literally, my memory was like a blank slate. I was embarrassed and googled “Zambia” to see its capital city; it was Lusaka. Though I spent most of my time in Southern region, Choma when I was in Zambia, I did spend a few days in Lusaka... My brain needs some stimulation to match capital city with each country I visited.

Although I am fortunate to work many different places, I cannot avoid having superficial knowledge of each country. When I went to Sierra Leone, I purchased online books about Sierra Leone to understand that country. I got serious empathy with the story of brutal Sierra Leone civil war, learned history and geography, and I also used to introduce local food in serial in the blog. However, the more country I go, my affection for the new country kept cooling down. It has to be different, but I regarded every unique characteristic in a certain country as the same thing in other Africa region. The weather is hot and humid, the food is just similar, and mosquitoes always irritate me, end of story (?). I am so terrible! It cannot be the same. Staying only one location as long as I can to feel all-about one country might be much better. I was initially interested in learning the local language, so I tried to speak Swahili in Tanzania. Once I left that country, I lost interest in knowing totally different language in Zambia and Malawi. Now I confront with Portuguese, and I have to ask having English menu at the restaurant. I am sorry to lose the opportunity to feel and love the country where I stay. I am just busy doing my work in a hurry without deep understanding of country.

I have been to five African countries – Sierra Leone, Tanzania, Zambia, Malawi, and now Mozambique – and went to more than 20 locations since last June. I did not intend to do it, but things beyond conception happen. The greatest difficulty was not the work itself. Handling the exact same process of miscellaneous stuff to settle down in the new place wears me out. Immigration people in any country were always suspicious what I am doing in many African countries, and I sweated hard to explain how I got the visa outside of my home country while feeling people’s glare behind me. I repeat exchanging money, finding restaurant and market, procuring cell phone and Internet, getting friendly with new people, and introducing myself.

The number “five” should be meaningful to me, and it cannot become a mere number. At least, I have to know where exactly I am located, and how the country map looks like. I would also like to know what is going on in the country, politically, socially, and economically. Understanding health, water, and sanitation part of the country was the tip of an iceberg. I would like to have the infinite affection for the country!

I am here in Maputo! <http://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-13890416>

Jan 5. 2015. The first day

The day dawned bright and clear from 5am. I saw the similar pattern of southern African weather. Day cracks early, and people wake up early to start the day. When I was in Malawi, 7am was like the sun is up and high. So is Mozambique. Everyone can be a much of a morning person here. Mozambique has two seasons – wet (Oct to Mar) and dry (Apr to Sept) season – of tropical climate; I am not sure how crazily rains in Mozambique during the rainy season. Let’s see!

It was the first day to come to the national office. It was a small office where 50 staff work. It was early in the morning, 8am, and I met Claudio. Some staff went to vacation during January, and he would work closely with me for MozWASH project. I did a rite of passage, introducing myself to people here and there. I was a bit clumsy although the building was simple inside. Sadly, my MacBook laptop did not connect to office wi-fi, so I had to spend a lot of time to fix it. I barely googled the problems, and fortunately, many people have already been discussing Apple’s new software, OS X Yosemite that it disconnects the internet every 30 seconds. Oh my first day… Why now? I temporarily solved the issue in the end, but do now know how long it lasts.

There was a food delivery service! 

Sidonio briefed me on what to do during this change of government of Mozambique. The opposition party, RENAMO (the Mozambican National Resistance) has been convened and held nationwide demonstrations against the president election result, so he told me avoid crowded area and be aware of surroundings. Amazingly, International SOS always emails me about the country where I am, and they sent me Mozambique security information on Jan 4 and said, “avoid vicinity of upcoming nationwide opposition protests.” International SOS somehow knows my travel course. (Wow!)

<Renamo rejects Mozambique election result, African observers endorse vote>

http://www.reuters.com/article/2014/10/17/uk-mozambique-election-idUSKCN0I60L620141017

It was the inattentive first day, and I concurrently released lots of energy surrounded by new people. However, I enjoyed new things all around me because it makes me feel alive. After work, I had to exercise. Security briefing scared me to prepare for the worst, so I was even hesitant to go outside and jog around in the early evening. Maputo was the hectic city that I could not easily cross the road, and people were selling things on the street. There was no good place to jog… I need to think about how to spend my time here in Mozambique meaningfully. The sun comes up early in the morning again.

Jan 4. 2015. II. Mozambique Cuisine I. Portuguese Steak

I picked Portuguese steak as my first meal in Mozambique because I liked that name. It must be something special. I also ordered rice with vegetable and bottle of water, and the total price turned out to be 410 MT ($13).It was double the 국밥($6) in S. Korea. A Server also brought two bottle of liquid for me; one was olive, and the other was something else. He told me what that was twice, but I did not hear well. I tried taste. It was sour, so it must be vinegar?

Portuguese steak was good. It was salty, and pretty well-done meat. Rice was suitably greasy. In any place in the world, there is meat, vegetable, fish, spice and rice; the only difference is the art of cooking. Taste becomes diverse depending on a recipe with the common ingredients. The food in Tanzania, Zambia, and Malawi made me unwell. Now I realize why I had something wrong with my insides in Africa; food is not spicy! Once I left my native country, I am sick for 김치 and 고추장… I do not know why my palate cannot abandon an acute sense of taste for severe hot spicy pungent food.

Anyway, the first food in Mozambique was good. I hope I will love all kinds of Mozambique foods during the stay.

Jan 4. 2015. I. Hello hello, Mozambique!

This airport looked so familiar. Yes, I have been to Johannesburg international airport three times recently. When I went to Tanzania from Sierra Leone, to Zambia from Tanzania, to Mozambique from South Korea, I always passed through South Africa. Even the movies in the airplane were still all the same since I last boarded on South African airways. The national flag on the wings of an airplane looked friendly, and inner structure of the airport was kind of like my home (Haha). Luckily, I did not feel any uncomfortable moment although I go to the new city, Maputo in Mozambique. The only awkward moment was that I wore the heavy winter clothing with short pants and long sleeves. South Korea was so cold but Africa was the exact opposite. I had to bring a few extra plastic bags in my hands during the whole transferring processes because my one luggage exceeded the maximum 23kg, so I had to take out something to save $100 fee. Every airlines had the different luggage policy; Asiana Airlines allowed two luggage and each of them should not exceed 23kg. I had only one luggage, and it was much less than 46kg, but why each one should be less than 23kg? (I think the sum of two would be rational.)

However, I loved Asiana Airlines’ service during the flight. I took the first airplane, Asisan Airline to get Hongkong, but the departure was delayed. I worried that I would miss the next airplane for South Africa because there were only 50 minutes left. The flight attendant checked that and came back to me several times. She told me 지상직원 would know this situation and do not have to worry. (What does “지상” mean? My Korean has been getting worse…) When the airplane landed, she took me to the exit even before the first class customer took off. Yoo hoo! I did not even have time to see her name, and I would not see her again, but I was moved by Koreans’ kindness. I would want to say thank you for your service!

Finally, the fashion breaker who wore four seasons clothing with neck pillow and eye blindfold at the same time arrived in Maputo, Mozambique in the morning, Jan 4! Flight was not that fun, as always, because it normally takes one whole day to get the opposite side of the earth. The driver Augusto from World Vision Mozambique came to the airport to take me to the guesthouse. We barely communicated with each other in English. I wished I could learn the official language, Portuguese before coming to Mozambique, but I was too lazy to learn the new language. 16 days in Portuguese-spoken country seemed too short period for me to learn how to say even “hello,” “I am hungry” in advance… Well, I can learn some simple expressions for surviving from now! At least, I cannot starve to death only because I do not know what to order in the restaurant. <Security guidelines briefing for Mozambique visitors and staff> quite frightened me, but I am glad to be back in Africa. It should be ok if I do not go outside at night, right? My health and safety is the top priority during the stay.

The first impression of Maputo was: HOT. It was 28 Celsius. I am experiencing extreme weathers dramatically, super-hot in Malawi, super-cold in South Korea, and super-duper-hot in Mozambique again. The second impression was: DESOLATION. Once I entered my room, I was captured by a feeling of loneliness. It was a small, moldy-smelled, and choky room. Who do I meet? It was only 1pm on Sunday, but I had nowhere to go, no one to know, and only uninteresting 2 TV channels were available. Surprisingly, this place was 2,420 MT ($78) per night. I do not quite understand the price in Africa. If you see dying African babies in UNICEF advertisement in the airplane and donate some coins through the envelope, you may expect everything would be cheap in Africa. Belis told me over the phone I could decide whether I would keep staying here or change the place after spending one night here. He said, “Please, please, please, let me know if you like that place. We want you to stay comfortable in Mozambique.” I heard “Please” about ten times. It was a bit burdened, but I could feel his true heart, so I appreciated that.

What is the appropriate and reasonable accommodation for visitors, donors, sponsors, and staff from other countries? I already have been to five African countries as an intern, but I cannot still answer that clearly. I do not know how to narrow the huge gap between gathering coins for Africans through UNICEF and comforting myself in Africa circumstances. What is more, I am not sure what is the desirable attitude as a position of intern. I have been trying to be thankful for everything, but my primitive instinct sometimes tells me I cannot bear something. I was shocked that so many Korean college students work without pay for their internship but even were delighted at having the work experiences. Korean companies take easily advantage of desperate applicants in the name of intern and do not employ them in the end. The temporary position makes them small, so any small request makes them inconvenient. What about me? I am awfully sorry that World Vision always tries to resolve any conflict of mine. Those hospitalities come to my own charge wholly, and I groan under a heavy burden that I should become a person of considerable merit. However, the unchangeable thing was that everyone has its job to do, no matter what the position is, and it needs to be done well. Yes, all’s well that ends well. Whew… I may stay here only today. By the way, I am stinky and hungry. Let me wash and have some food for now…

Jan 3. 2015. 초심

Happy new year! I am waiting for the airplane at Incheon international airport. I am going to Mozambique! It would be 5^th African country I visit during the 2^nd year public health master degree student.

I give my sincere condolences to victims of AirAsia crash. Tragedy always happens. AirAsia Flight 8501 left Surabaya city in Indonesia on early Sunday (Dec 28, 2014) crashed in the Java Sea during the storm. The pilot might try to land on sea’s surface after his requested permission for flying higher. AirAsia wanted to fly higher, but air-traffic control could not give permission because there were six airplanes at different altitudes in that area at the same time.

<AirAsia Pilot’s Final Request Was Met by Two-Minute Radio Delay>

http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2014-12-31/pilot-s-final-request-was-met-by-two-minute-radio-silence.html

A total of 162 people in the airplane are assumed to be all dead in the sea, and the forces have been searched the wreck of the plane and began to find to the dead body. My heart is so heavy from the beginning of the new year. Human being cannot control death at any time. I thought for a few moments about canceling to go to Mozambique because I was afraid to get on the airplane. It seemed to be better for me to go back to the U.S. directly to start 3^rd term at school. However, I want to keep my words on all accounts, so I have to visit Mozambique. 2-week work over there would be a refreshing experience in new January.

I have crowds of things to do. I will not forget my original intention when I was in Sierra Leone. Although I am not in the Ebola epicenter anymore, the disease is still there and people are suffering. I will cheer the Korean medical service team who was dispatched to Sierra Leone to stop Ebola. In Mozambique, I will do the best to contribute to develop World Vision water, sanitation, and hygiene (WASH) project.

I am leaving my home country a few hours later.